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Fighting between government forces and
separatist rebels has affected tourism
in the southern seaside town of
Hikkaduwa. Deshakalyan Chowdhury / AFP |
HIKKADUWA, SRI LANKA. The
tranquil setting, abundant birdlife and
coconut-laden palm trees are not enough to
attract tourists to the lake in Sri Lanka’s
south-west where Warush Nandasiri makes his
living.
The 55-year-old, who
takes visitors for boat trips across a
stretch of water close to the seaside town
of Hikkaduwa, has seen business drop off
dramatically.
With violence between the
Sinhalese government forces and Tamil rebels
escalating, holiday-makers are shunning Sri
Lanka, and people like Nandasiri are bearing
the financial brunt.
"Last year was bad, now
it’s more bad. It’s the Tamil problem.
Tourists don’t like to come to Sri Lanka,"
said Nandasiri, who has two daughters and
one son.
The money he can make
from rowing tourists across the lake dwarfs
what he could earn doing anything else, such
as fishing. For a single trip, he can take
home about 1,000 Sri Lankan rupees
(Dh33.12), double the national average daily
wage.
But with fewer tourists
coming, it means fewer private school
lessons for his youngest daughter, and that
could affect her university prospects.
"Next month my son goes
to university. I want money for university.
I have another daughter at school. I have to
pay school fees and private lessons," he
said.
The ferocity of Sri
Lanka’s civil war has ebbed and flowed since
1983, when the Liberation Tigers of Tamil
Eelam launched their most daring raid on
government targets to press their demand for
a Tamil state in the north and east of the
island.
While the government and
the Tamil Tigers signed a ceasefire
agreement in 2002, the breakdown of peace
negotiations has seen an escalation in
attacks and military confrontations since
late 2005. Early this year, the government
pulled out of the ceasefire.
As a result, western
governments have warned their nationals
against travelling to Sri Lanka. Australia’s
department of foreign affairs and trade, for
example, notes in its travel advice of the
"very high risk of politically motivated
violence" and urges travellers to
"reconsider your need to travel to Sri Lanka
at this time".
Wasantha Kumari, 56, who
runs Mama’s Beach Hotel and Restaurant on
the seafront of Hikkaduwa, said visitor
numbers had been falling since 2006.
Earlier this month, her
hotel, which has eight rooms and two
apartments, was empty.
"We don’t know what’s
happened to tourism in Hikkaduwa. We don’t
know what’s happened to our business. There
are no more tourists in Hikkaduwa," she
said.
"People say: ‘No
tourists, no tourists, what’s happening?’
What are we going to do? We don’t know."
Like many, she is
frustrated that tourists are not visiting
the south-west of the country, even though
the area is low-risk for terrorist attacks
and is far away from the Tamil-held areas in
the north and east where the Tamils want to
establish a separate state.
"Now it’s been three
years with the tourist industry going down.
We hope the tourist season will start after
Christmas but we cannot tell," she said.
The Sri Lanka Tourism
Development Authority’s figures paint a
bleak picture. In August, a peak month for
European visitors in Sri Lanka, arrivals
were down more than 30 per cent on the same
month in 2007.
Between January to
October this year, 352,649 tourists came to
Sri Lanka, a nine per cent drop on the same
period in 2007. Earlier forecasts from the
authorities of 600,000 visitors this year,
generating US$550 million (Dh2 billion), now
appear hopelessly optimistic.
The number of visitors
for the whole of last year, at 494,008, was
itself 12 per cent below 2006’s figure of
559,603. Total arrivals are still higher
than in the years in the 1980s that followed
the initial outbreak of violence, but they
are declining heavily.
In Galle, further south
along the coast, there is little cause for
optimism. The 17th century Dutch-built old
town, one of the most impressive fortified
cities created by Europeans in the region,
is failing to draw many people in this year.
Sita Wijenayake, 76, has
run a guesthouse there since 1968 and says
she has never known things this dismal.
"This year it’s
particularly bad. Last year it was down but
this year it’s really bad. About 90 per cent
down," she said.
"Most of the guesthouses
are almost empty. When you go for a walk you
don’t see guests. It’s [the] worst for us in
40 years.
"It’s sad because most of
the guests are really nice. They are our
friends. After the first visit, the second
visit, they become family to us," she said.
Even many regulars are
now shunning the country, scared away by the
recent attacks.
Fazila Jazael, who runs a
nearby guesthouse overlooking the fort wall,
said less than half of last year’s tourist
numbers are visiting in 2008.
While the industry
suffered badly after the tsunami in late
2004, that downturn was offset by the
arrivals of employees of non-governmental
organisations. This time there is no such
compensation.
"It’s very quiet. There
are no new people coming," she said, adding
that the global financial crisis was also
expected to add to the tourist industry’s
woes.
Among those suffering
financially is Razik Hussain, 43, who walks
the streets of Galle selling tablecloths.
"The problems are not
here, they’re in Jaffna," he said, referring
to the government-controlled city in the
northern peninsula that the Tamils want as
capital of their separate state.
"But it’s the tourist
season and they have not come here. Last
year more tourists."
"There’s no business. I
have three children. It’s very difficult.
European people don’t like to come."
By Daniel Bardsley
Courtesy-thenational.ae