This is Henry Street
in Fremantle and the alleyway used to lead to the
stables behind William Dalgety Moore’s warehouses.
On ships bound for
Britain, the United States, Australia’s east coast,
Java, Cape Town, Japan and India went merchandise from
these buildings. On ships coming back came tins, sacks,
crates and packets of spices, rice, alcohol, medicines,
materials, tools and equipment. The goods went on the
shelves of the storefronts on High Street after a short
stint, piled high in the warehouses.
Then the matrons
and maids would come into town — to High Street, in
their gowns and boots, taking care to watch where they
stepped. The more shrewd knew Moore was a wholesaler and
would scour the newspapers for the adverts that promoted
the warehouse sales of excess stock at wholesale prices.
They would then flock to the warehouse on Henry Street.
Now it still stores
items from around the world. On the walls hang the
artistic works of both local and international artists.
One part of it is set aside for a counselling centre
where counsellors provide treatment based on ideas and
theories created by minds from all corners of the globe.
A courtyard
Down in the
alleyway is the cafe. Walk through it and past the
tables and chairs made in China or Taiwan and out to the
back, and you find a courtyard. A courtyard surrounded
by the back of the buildings on the allotments of land
behind and on both sides of this one and by the little
smaller ancillary buildings still dating from the 1880s.
It’s a little oasis
where the sun shines down and plays off the brick and
stonework walls. Here, cafe patrons can hide from the
worst of the Fremantle Doctor when it blows. The
alleyways in Fremantle are often like this, acting like
little gateways to the other worlds. You never know what
you find when you walk through them.
Further up Henry
Street is another alleyway. Walk through it and you come
to a courtyard, part of which has been transformed into
a garden complete with ferns and fountains of running
water. It sits at the entrance to the headquarters of a
company providing massage therapy and behind the
property of a Dutch couple who own it and have managed
to create it on two levels out of what used to be a
warehouse basement. It is a little piece of green in the
midst of brick and stone and dusty sand and concrete.
Transported back in
time
On Philimore
Street, you can walk through a particular alleyway and
be transported back in time. More or less, it is as it
was back when the buildings were built and the alleyways
created. On either side of the narrow fences you can see
the backs of the Notre Dame University’s College of Arts
and Science’s building or the side of the Fremantle
Hotel building.
Between the two
fences, right where you stand you can see under two
centimetres of dust and dirt, pieces of blue and white
china and bits of green glass. Standing in the middle of
the alleyway you can look at the building and watch as
you see the men walk out of the back door, pause for a
smoke and toss their garbage out. The broken plates and
the empty bottles. You can see where the horses were
tethered and the goods brought in. It’s not that hard to
imagine what life must have been like when you have the
landscape around you.
Hustle and bustle
As you stand behind
the building, you can hear the hustle and bustle that
would have been the norm on both Philimore and High
Street. High Street in front bustling with the sound of
people shopping and conducting trade and Philimore
Street, full of the sounds of the ships pulling up at
the docks, full of steam, blowing their horns, lots of
shouting as people get off and others lift goods off the
decks.
The trains and
trams moving up and down as they carry goods and people
back and forth. Switch your eyes, ears and mind back to
the present day and you hear a few seagulls and cars and
the rest is silence. The docks are not empty but they
are not busy either. Things have changed and even if you
were to head to North Fremantle where the business of
the docks is carried out, what you would hear is the
sound of machinery and transport. But for a while in
this alleyway, behind this building, you can imagine
what it must have been like a century ago.
We are back in
Henry Street, walking down the alleyway with the cafe,
the one that draughthorses must have plodded down. I sit
here in the courtyard with my friends, eating salmon
from the Atlantic and drinking chocolate that could have
by now come from Spain, South America, Africa or
anywhere else really. We attempt to puzzle our way
through life as we sit here, talking, eating and
drinking.
Matrons and maids
Somewhere else, a
bit far off but not too far, those matrons and maids
would have shopped till they dropped, gone home and
invited each other around for afternoon teas. As they
sat there gossiping, exchanging news, admiring and
envying house, social status and clothes and quite
possibly complaining about their husbands and how they
never stop working, they would have puzzled their way
through life as much as we do now.
Life goes on. We
aim to gain control of our environment all the while
forgetting that nature controls us. Those ladies puzzled
their way through life till they got to the end. We all
know what the end is for us. But while we cease to
exist, the buildings and their alleyways do not.
Perhaps even after
I die, this warehouse will still stand, especially if
the heritage laws, listings and regulations do not
change. Perhaps the cafe will get handed down,
generation after generation and will somehow still be
here. Perhaps someone else will stand in the alleyways
and see gardens in the courtyards and be able to imagine
not just the hustle and bustle of the 1880s but also the
ideas in a writer’s head in the 2010s.
In the meantime,
the alleyways are here. The cafe is still here and if
you are ever in Perth, catch the train down to Fremantle
and walk over to Henry Street. Come have a coffee in the
cafe called Moore’s and Moore’s and puzzle your way
through your life here. You might find some answers.