Adams Peak

By Rajithangani Unantenna Fernando

In the Sabaragamuwa Province, 40 kilometers from the city of Ratnapura is Adams Peak, the holy mountain peak venerated by all religions.

At a height of 2243 meters – Adams Peak can be seen from many parts of the country, and even from the sea; wherever you see it from, you cannot help but stare at it and pay reverence to it. I am one of the few fortunate ones, who are able to see Adams Peak from my balcony in my home in Navinna which is in the outskirts of Colombo. Each morning as I see it a strange feeling occurs inside me.

On the summit, there is a depression 1.5m long and 76mm wide, shaped like a human foot.

Buddhists believe it is the foot print of the Buddha placed before his departure after his third and final visit to Sri Lanka. Muslims believe it is the foot print of Adam when he stood there on one foot 1000 years, as penance, after his expulsion from Paradise.  Christians believe it to be that of Adam after his expulsion from the Garden of Eden. (The Portuguese believe it to be of St. Thomas who introduced Christianity to Sri Lanka.)

As for the Hindus, they believe it is the foot of Shivam in a dance posture. They call it Shivam Adi Padam.
Buddhists  call the peak Sri Pada (Holy foot print) derived from Sanskrit. It is also referred to as Samanala Kanda (Butterfly Mountain) because of the thousands of butterflies that frequent the mountain during their  annual migration. It is also believed that the Veddhas (aborigines of Sri Lanka) called the mountain Samanala Kanda – before the advent of all these religions.

Access to the peak is possible from six trails, but only two are used as the others are considered too dangerous and difficult to climb due to winds, rain and mist.

Thousands of pilgrims trek to the summit during the months from December to May — the season — which culminates in the month of May, on Vesak Full Moon day.

At the summit, after paying homage to the sacred foot most of the pilgrims remain through the night to watch the sunrise in the morning.

Sunrise on Adams peak is a magnificent sight. The sun as it rises and beams its rays on the peak casts a shadow which falls on the plains in the opposite side. Then as the sun rises further the shadow slowly disappears.

Thomas Skinner, the Englishman who laid the railway tracks in Sri Lanka, describes the scene from the top of Adams Peak as the most wonderful scenery he had ever witnessed. He says in his autobiography (50 Years Of Ceylon) that he witnessed the shadow of the peak across the whole land and sea, to the horizon and for a few minutes the apex was double and clearly visible was the little shed covering  the impressions of the Buddha’s foot, in the shadow. On another occasion, he says the mist was so deep in the valley below that it represented the sea. The clouds rolling against the base of the mountain like little waves beating against the cliffs, the summits of other peaks appearing like small islands.

There are many mysterious stories attributed to the mountain peak.
I remember my grandmother telling me of how pilgrims who did not adhere to certain guidelines were said to have never reached the summit, having lost their way for days. A friend of mine told me of how when a certain family was climbing, they had met an old man who was also climbing.  He was old and had many sores on his hands and legs. At a certain point this family had stopped to have tea.  Seeing this man they had also offered him a cup of tea. Afterwards when they resumed the climb they had observed the man ahead of them. However at the top of the peak when they looked for him he had simply vanished.

There are also tales of pilgrims seeing mysterious lights usually in blue  streaking across the sky above the peak like shooting stars. They believe they are various deities paying their respects to the holy foot-print.

There is also a sheer precipice called Lihini Hela. It is said that one cannot see the bottom of this ravine. Legend has it that a woman called Lihini Akka hurled herself down this precipice after her husband left her with their only child. They say if you go to this rock and shout her name the echo you hear is of a woman’s voice.

There is also a place called Nonage Ambalama (Pilgrims Rest). This place is where Gajaman Nona had once rested while climbing the peak.

There is a legendary story that the Buddha rested in a cave called Diva Guhawa when he visited the mountain. But no one has been able to locate this cave up to now.

It is said that many people who have gone searching for this place have got lost.

The deity who is the protector or guardian of the domain (Adaviya) is known as God Saman.  God Saman is said to have been a prince or a leader in that area when he heard that the Buddha was visiting Mahiyangana. He had gone there to meet him. After listening to the Buddha’s sermon he had attained  Sohan.

Thereafter he had made two requests of Lord Buddha. The first was a request for relics. Thereafter the Buddha is said to have given him a lock of his hair. Saman had then constructed the Mahiyangana Chaithya (Dagaba) which houses the Buddha’s hair relics. This dagaba was rebuilt by King Dutugemunu and made larger as it stands today. The second request was for Buddha to visit and set foot on the summit of Adams Peak. This the Buddha did on a blue sapphire precious stone.  Subsequently thinking that someone will steal the stone it was covered with cement and mortar as it is seen today.

Later Sumana (Prince) was elevated as a deity and named Sumana Saman. It is said that God Saman teaches life lessons to pilgrims, playing on their expectations.

According to legend it was King Valagamba (104-76BC) who discovered Adams peak. Thereafter many kings have ascended this holy mountain to pay homage to the Sri Pada. It is  said that King Vijayabahu (1065 – 1119 AD) built shelters for pilgrims and King Parakramabahu the 2nd  cleared the jungle and built buildings etc.

King Dutugemunu during his self exile in the area is said to have ascended the peak several times to pay homage to this foot print.

It is said that around 250,000 pilgrims ascend the peak during the season. From whenever you see this peak it does something to you — a feeling of reverence  that cannot be explained.

To climb it is an experience itself and the time you spend on the summit is a moment you will never forget.

There are many rituals that pilgrims perform on their way to the summit.

It is said some of them visit the Saman Devale in Rathnapura and make wows for a safe return after climbing the peak.

It is also said that first time visitors bathe in clear, icy cold water at the Seetha Gangula after which they tie a thread with a threaded needle near a place called Geththam Pahana. Many visitors to the summit ring the bell on the summit to announce the number of times they have climbed the peak.