Vesak In Jaffna

I’m in Jaffna for Vesak. Every military and government institution is bedecked with lanterns, lights and flags. Each Army outpost is flanked by Buddhist flags. I can see how this might be disconcerting for the majority Hindus. Hinduism, being the supple faith that it is, can surely subsume even this encroachment, in time. The question is whether feelings here will be hurt, and whether there is that intention.

Vishnu

Vesak could even be a Hindu festival, if you look at it askance. Hinduism absorbed Buddhism into its millions of Gods by deeming him the ninth incarnation of Vishnu, the creator in the trinity. This is curious because the being who defeated rebirth therein still has one more incarnation to go. Look out for a guy on a white horse, and look busy.
Vishnu is one of the four guardians of Sri Lanka along with Kataragama. He supposedly returned as Rama to give us a divine and just thrashing. Then as the Buddha to give us enlightenment. He hovers in our temples and protects us still.
I’m just not sure that bit of theological detail makes anyone feel better about the Buddhist flags waving in front of the guys with guns.

Jaffna

Jaffna is sensitive. Sometimes too much so. I still hear of families where low caste people aren’t allowed to drink the same water. Colonization is a constant fear, not so much in Jaffna but all along the North and East. It’s a strange concept for one country, that the movement of races would be restricted, but it makes sense. I’ve yet to meet a Tamil who says I can’t move where I want. They’re just concerned about government sponsored changes of local demographics. Like Palestinians are concerned about settlers. There is the difference that Sri Lanka actually is one country, but I guess that’s still a touchy subject.
The celebration of Vesak here, led by the military, looks a bit out of place. It is not like Colombo or outstation where people organise spontaneous dansalas handing out food and treats of their own accord. It is not like the southern streets where thousands travel in the back of trucks, waving and stopping to look at the light displays, and each other.
In Jaffna, Vesak is a series of flags and decorations around military and government buildings. It is government sponsored. I suppose that’s the rub.
Can’t Go Back, May As
Well Go Forward

Yet there is nothing inherently wrong with celebrating Vesak here. I like Vesak. It’s a holiday for one. I like lights, who doesn’t like lights? Et cetera. As a holiday-goer myself, however, I can only ask that we now reserve the same level of government sponsorship to Hindu holidays like Thai Pongol, Dussehra and Diwali. The last I would like very much. It would be like the Rupavahini Mervyn colour-pelting incident, except everyone gets to do it.
I then suppose also that Christmas and Muslim holidays should be government sponsored as well.  The government currently celebrates these, but it would be good to see the orange Hindu flag in front of military outposts for Thai Pongol.

We Can Get Along

It probably won’t go that way, but it can. For all the acrimony of war, our religions have always got along. Not our monks, necessarily, but if you visit any Buddhist temple there is either a connected Hindu temple or at least a deity. Many families often worship a Hindu God and there is an ancient Hindu caste that still performs Hindu-style rituals at the Sri Maha Bodhi.
Despite the flag waving and posturing tone, the religions can actually get along. As can the people. With mutual respect.  Through all of this, we have managed to keep this from becoming a holy war. That feeling may be a bit lacking in the execution this weekend in Jaffna, but one hopes for a bit more subtlety and equality in time. It’s at least more fun holidays for us all.