Sri Lanka’s Development Boom
When I lived in America we’d come back to visit Sri Lanka once every three or four years.
In my memory, it never changed. Same buses, same cars, same streets, same stuff to do. In the last year, however, Colombo and Sri Lanka have changed dramatically, and these changes seem to be picking up steam.
In the past month we’ve seen the first proper highway, the first proper development in the city centre and now the first 3D theatre. There is construction everywhere and new businesses popping up left and right, including online. This is just stuff I’ve seen and interacted with. I, personally, can visibly see a change.
Colombo Beautification
Independence Square had not changed since Independence. Now there’s a full promenade leading to the planetarium, and more recently a bike path. I was leaving the Cinnamon Gardens police and I was like wow, an actual bike path. The place is peaceful, beautiful, and you can take families there without worrying about dog poop, cow poop, or any poop at all. It’s just lovely and garbage free space for the people. And I say this not for colour. Where I live in Dehiwela there are two parks, one is also a cow grazing ground and the other is somewhat randomly home to dead, headless crows.
Roads
For over 30 years cops have been on checkpoint duty. Now there are almost no checkpoints and they can do actual cop stuff, like policing traffic. Colombo now has a one-way system and flyovers and you can generally pipe in and out of the city. What is neglected is public transit and people moving around within the city, but it’s still better than the non-moving that was going on before.
Provincially, there are now decent roads throughout the country, and a highway. The A9 to Jaffna is open, itself a generational wonder, and they’ve even set up a dedicated (temporary) bus stand at the end of Marine Drive. The roads in the East were improved years ago, though flooding really raked them. The next expressways planned are one around Colombo, a new Kandy Road and one to Trinco in the East. There’s also an Indian funded train planned for Jaffna.
Business
I drive up and down the zoo road a lot. Seven months ago there was a plot of bare land saying for sale. Then it was bought and they dug a hole in the ground. Going by past experience, I expected this hole to remain for years. Today, however there’s a building, with a new ‘for sale or lease sign’ on it, for four floors of commercial property. You see this all over Colombo and Sri Lanka. I was in Matara and they have the biggest Arpico I’ve ever seen, plus the best kept guesthouse. In Colombo there are now like 10 coffee-shops. I remember when it was only Barista and that horrid pasty tandoori sandwich. Now you can pay Rs. 500 for a sandwich all over town.
On the lower end, I also remember seeing Burgers King in Slave Island go from a street stand to a shop to a quai-restaurant with a huge signboard and uniforms and all. Other stuff includes the Gonuts For Donuts chain and countless small home sweet shops, and in the same time I think ODEL has opened like 5 outlets.
Online,Anything.lk is promoting all these small to medium businesses. Through them I’ve learned that we have enough new hair salons for me to go someplace new every week. I got some clippers to save myself the trouble, but still. I know at least two friends who are starting businesses, a few friends who are DJing and organising parties, and there are now multiple arts events, like Pecha Kucha.
Scene
This December international acts Chicane, Basement Jaxx and Avicii are coming down. For the first time these are acts I have heard of and not in an ironic way. As a child I remember seeing Poison posters, and more recently we’ve gotten Englebert Humperdinck and Jay Sean and some sort of rash. Slowly, however, we’re getting bigger and bigger acts and, even if promoters are kinda fumbling about, a scene is coming up.
So
Online I still hear hyperbole about how Sri Lanka is a basket-case and going the wrong way and things have never been worse, which is completely disconnected from reality. Seriously, just walk or travel around. We have a new sushi nightclub/lounge, a Ministry Of Crab and actual sidewalks on the Galle Road. I lost my ID months ago and still haven’t replaced it, nor have I had any problems. You don’t know how amazing this is. My childhood memories of Sri Lanka are almost all the same, but now I see the country changing literally every day. And for the better.
Is inequality a problem? Are some changes wasteful? Yes. But these problems I’m actually happy to deal with. For once its not like, are we killing each other again? Was there a bomb on the bus? We’re having second or first world problems now, and the papers are talking about policy and issues rather than bodycounts.
Hence, I don’t discount the problems, but I’ll be damned if I don’t see things getting better right before my eyes.
I have not visited Sri Lanka since 2000.
I can hardly wait for my next visit to see the changes that the writer has described.
When I was a child, it took us five hours by Ruhunu Kumari to travel from Weligama to Colombo Fort. Now, I can make the same trip on the freeway in an hour!
Indeed, these are changes from ending the conflict even though those cited are mainly superficial. However, the significant structural erosion does not bode well for the future. There is clear evidence of erosion of democracy, excessive abuse of power by those ruling the country. I’m fiercely independent with no love for any party or community but SL as my motherland. It’s a shame if we ruin this opportunity to fix the big issues that are eating away the country’s long term viability and the cosmetic changes are just a facade much like a screen saver which covers the ‘ugliness’ of the system.
Is inequality a problem?
No every one is eating sushi, crab and Rs. 500 for a sandwich.
The writer does not look like a person who had returned from America with an impartial view, but rather a person posing as a mouth peice for someone. Look at the chaos in Colombo, did you not see this mess. There is no orderly construction of any structure adjacent to major roads such as; Galle Road, Kandy Road, Negombo Road, etc… or minor roads. Signs are hanging from roof tops, windows and they are all over the place. Do you call this beautiful? I call it bless the mess in Colombo and suburbs. Didn’t you see Police/Army check points at Galle Face, Lotus Road, Slave Island, etc.. How can you say no Police check points in Colombo with a straight face?
His retune to SL from US most definitely improved the IQ of both countries.
Well written!!!! unbiased… thank you.
So “Things getting better”, huh? Seriously, buildings, roads and entertainment are all that really matter to you? How about human values and human rights? Do you see these developing in this country? Please, please, if you want to fill a weekly column, write something that isn’t blatantly sycophantic.
Man it is amazing to read something coming from SundayLeader and some one writing positive about the changes that are happening . Its almost non Sri Lankan .
Indi, the eternal optimist. Love you man.
This may be the first time I heard something positive about Sri Lanka in this news paper. While acknowledging the dire necessity to reveal about corruption, poor management, waste etc in Sri Lanka, I think a genuine appreciation about good changes is very important if a media really wants to see a progress in a country. Thank you for writing what I witnessed in last two years.
In Sri Lanka “SIGHT” too is politicized & that’s why even media present a cock-eyed picture of development !
“In Colombo there are now like 10 coffee-shops. I remember when it was only Barista and that horrid pasty tandoori sandwich. Now you can pay Rs. 500 for a sandwich all over town.”
Ha…ha…ha…you are a very funny fellow…
America’s loss is Rajapaksa’s gain. Why not speak to the PresiDunce and ask him to make you Chairman of Lake House?
Indi – You are really funny. For you a sandwich at 500 isnt a big deal but how many aaverage Srilankans could affored it? Oden opening 5 outlets is development for you? (Sorry Ottara). Do you think that same avarage Srilankans can shop at Odel? Development is a must and there is no problem in that. We fully support for that. Of course this government has to do it development in every coties in the country since there is no war. Its not the regime money they spend. Now there is no war so is this a big deal? Go and see everywhere else, every town even the dirty chennai has changed its face. MR & bros not doing us a favour. People did vote them for this although you try to paint a diffent rather a favourable picture. Come on Indi, you used to write interesting articles I wonder why you have changed and write jargons now or in other words polishing apple.
Hi Guys,
After 20 years of War Sri lanka is emerging for wonderful recovery thanks to MR ending the War.
If you look past, JAPAN became one of the top countries after completely destroying from Second World War (After USA dropped nuclear bombs)
In my opinion, You do not need to a thing to make this rapid development as it is automatic after business are suffered for such long time.
Please do not talk about side issues (Coffee shops, condition of 500Rs sandwich, poetry road congestions etc.) All of these have been there since the 1948 independence.
Enjoy the free ride rather than complaining
I Agree with both len and Imran Hussein, your article sounds like a load of hog wash for someone who is just visiting from US you mention that you lost your ID for months??? So what is your real deal? Just admit you’re another political lackey .
Rs500 for a sandwich are you NUTS???? Which average man in SL can buy a sandwich from a coffee shop for Rs500. Your are just talking of material benefits like shops opening here and there but at what cost. Bread at Rs.40? All roads closed for hours at a stretch so another of you colleagues can pass whilst we wait for them to pass us buy, political victimization or being unable to speak your mind up due to white van threats.
No my friend you are just delusional … Like all political lackeys!!!