Text and Pictures by Imaad Majeed

Arthur Seat, The view from Arthur Seat, Kandy’s signature lamp posts, The view en route to Kandy, Kandy is the only place where short-eats sell for Rs. 5 and A wooden elephant on the promenade by the side of the lake

While Kandy may be known for its rich history, its grand peraheras, and the temple of the tooth relic, the town makes for a pleasant trip in itself. Along the winding roads that go uphill and down, you will find shops catering to tourists and locals alike. From the antique boutiques, to the batik shops, and the museums tucked away in the corners, there is much to explore. Some sites that stand out would be the Udawatta Kale, situated around the lake; this forest sanctuary often goes unnoticed. The sanctuary is also home to three monasteries, along with a slew of flora and fauna.
Once you begin to venture outside of town, along the Peradeniya Road, you can begin one of many hikes uphill that greet your eyes to the majestic views the hills are known for. Even the houses along the way will catch your interest, as they hold on precariously to the side of hills. The greenery in Kandy is sometimes overwhelming as there is little to contrast it to. This is no concrete jungle, outside of the city centre there is likely more greenery than buildings. Lianas hang from the trees, falling just above the roadways giving ample clearance for the vehicles that zoom by.
Piachaud Garden will take you along a rather scenic route, ask anyone around and they will give you directions to Arthur Seat, a point from which you can look over the lake and the city centre. As the sun sets, the city begins to light up, with headlights streaming along the roads winding about the lake. There is a Buddha statue in the far distance that will catch your eye, unperturbed by the bustle of the city. A fountain throws water some fifty meters above the lake, as flocks of birds wade through, in an almost ceremonial dance. All of this can be seen from Arthur Seat, though you won’t be alone as the spot attracts quite a few tourists, camera in hand. The people of Kandy, however, are mild-mannered and always helpful. You must keep in mind that Kandy pretty much closes shop after 7 p.m. Within the city centre you will find activity into the late hours of night, but the rest of Kandy will close their doors as dusk settles in.
For food you can try the hotels, or White House Restaurant and the many restaurants strewn about the city centre. Or you could stop by Tamarind Tree Inn, a quaint little tavern on the side of a hill. You can set a table on the lawn and enjoy a pint with bites.
Prices are quite nominal, with only hotels charging the usual inflated amounts. On the streets, however, you can buy a little potato samosa,  mini ulundu and parippu vadais, and even isso vadais for just five rupees. Fruits and vegetables are also quite cheap, so you can go green if you have a kitchen to yourself. Ideally, Kandy is a place to be with friends or family, and most Sri Lankans know at least one family living here. Be it a distant relative, or a family friend, it is never a bad idea to pay a visit, if not for company, for the sake of escaping the humid stench of Colombo.
A train ticket will only cost you Rs 190 from Colombo Fort, and inter-city busses run up and down almost hourly. Lodging is not too expensive; you will be able to find cheap guest houses at Rs 1500, though hotels will charge according to the services offered.
Travelling around the city is also quite cheap, with most trishaw rides costing between Rs,100 to 300. By foot, however, is the best way to experience the hills, and the constant supply of fresh mountain air. Browse through the shopping centres in the town and look out for Waruna Antiques, Sriya & Daya Curio Shop and Jayamali Batik Studio, if you are keen on shopping. During my stay in Kandy I was given hospitality by a resident artist, one of many who choose to call the great hills of Candae their abode.

One of the many streams that feeds into the Belihul Oya, The view from World’s End ோல் Bakers Falls

Sinhalaya Travels finally managed to cobble together enough time to go over to the Horton Plains and metaphorically plunder its many riches.
Metaphorically. Now don’t go all PETA on us.
Horton Plains is a national park, located in the Nuwara Eliya area, full of wildlife (allegedly) and beautiful scenery(confirmed). We decided to have a look around World’s End and also make a quick journey over to Kirigalpoththa, the second highest peak in Sri Lanka.

Preparation

As far as preparation goes, you don’t really need much to tackle the Horton Plains. If you can go the length of Horton Place without breaking a sweat, you should be alright for this.(See what we did there?)
It will be very cold. Take warm clothing, a raincoat and, if this is during the rainy season, you can take leech socks; unless of course you’re feeling generous with the hemoglobin and want to spread the love a bit. There were no leeches when we went but we’re guessing it’ll be infested during the rainy season. All seasonal info and technical aspects of the trails can be found over at the ever-useful www.lakdasun.org.
It is also useful to book a cabin in the park, if you plan to stay more than one day. Technically, you could just drive over, climb Kirigalpoththa and drive back, but I doubt it’d be very enjoyable. A cabin was Rs. 7,000, had four(or five) spacious rooms and was, overall, well worth the money. Cabins come with a cook, though you’ll have to haul up rations like rice and chocolate(what?). Calling it a “cabin” is a slight injustice though, as by all rights it’s a full-fledged house, just in the middle of a wildlife-reserve. And actually everyone calls it a bungalow, which is more apt. You can book bungalows from the Wildlife Department. Usually bookings need to be made a month in advance when the season is on. There is excess demand in the bungalow market then.

Getting There

There are a handful of ways to get to the park. You can take the train, hop on a bus or drive. We decided to take the train. Taking a bus will take you roughly 5 hours to get all the way to Badulla. We’re not sure if there are buses to the park from there, but your ever willing tuk tuk will haul you up a skyscraper for the right fee.
Taking the train means spending approximately 9 hours on the train till you get to Ohiya station. You’ll know you’re close when you feel the need to start pulling on extra layers of clothing. Or if you don’t have any, when your nose begins to feel numb.
From Ohiya, it’ll be an uphill climb for about 14 kilometers till you get to the entrance of the park. Before embarking on the climb, we enjoyed some hot tea and coffee from a shop near the station. You will get varying accounts of the time it takes to climb this stretch from different people. We got estimates ranging from 20 minutes to an hour.
Alternatively, you can take a van or three wheeler from the base, and it will get you up the hill in a few terrifying minutes.
We started walking. Of course we could have sprinted up the mountain and slaughtered that stretch in a matter of minutes, but we had a few weak and infirm people among us so we decided to pile into a passing van for hire.
The geography of the park is such that you pass the cabins, or at least the one we stayed at, on the way to the Horton Plains Visitor Centre from Ohiya.
In order of appearance, you first get Ohiya, and a few kilometres from there you get the entrance to the park (this is just a large concrete portal kind of thing, where you have to pay the entrance fee. People are relatively cheap, vehicles are a few hundred rupees), after about a kilometer will get you to the cabin we stayed at, and yet another three kilometers or so will get you to the visitor centre, a bunch of buildings sitting atop a hill, where all the actual trails start.
You might feel slightly let down after hiking the distance to find the place surrounded by vans filled with families having picnics. The visitor centre has a few useful things, like a shop or two and a Museum of sorts chronicling the history of the park.

The Circular Trail

First up on the list was, of course, the regular Horton Plains – World’s End trail. You won’t need food for the World’s End circular trail. Just make sure to take water. There will be places to refill along the way.
This trail is pretty straightforward, and apparently dozens of people do the circuit daily. It has a few sights like a medium sized waterfall, World’s End and mini World’s End. All of these points on interest have little concrete viewing platforms built on them, and feel very much like a walk in the park. The landscape is beautiful, and World’s End is good for a few minutes of taking photos at weird angles. You can’t miss the trail as it’s paved most of the way and constantly has people going up and down the thing.
Just make sure to take a raincoat or something in case it starts raining. It can get pretty chilly up there. The whole thing can be completed in about 3-4 hours, and Lakdasun has the exact details if you need them.

Lion at Angurukaramulla temple, The nave of St. Mary’s Church and Old clocktower, Dutch Fort

The air is full of noise. “Fish, fresh fish!” some call, shouting prices, inviting you to stop and look. Their wares are spread out before them, scales gleaming metallic in the early morning sunlight. There are squid, prawns, even sting ray. Not far away, some women lay fish out in neat rows, drying and curing them. Others cast nets. The smell, of course, takes some getting used to.

A visit to Negombo, though, wouldn’t be quite complete without at least a passing glance at its fish market. Negombo is after all a fishing town — the sea is their lifeblood.
You can sense that by walking through the market, which is colourful and buzzing with activity. It’s worth noting that the prices are also cheaper than Colombo; as long as you don’t mind lugging around bags of fish.
If you’re not a fan of wandering through fish markets, though, there are plenty of other things to see or do in Negombo.
The first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Negombo is “beach.” Many weekend travellers flock to Negombo for a taste of sea and sand that’s also fairly close to Colombo.
The beach is not the most spectacular, but still decent. The hotels often have touts exhorting you to take a ride from a catamaran, go windsurfing, or visit the nearby turtle-hatchery. If none of those appeal, just clamber up onto the rocks and relax.
If you’re looking to explore further, there’s the Negombo lagoon; over 3000 hectares of watery expanse that yields much fresh seafood, including prawns and cuttlefish. It’s possible to take a boat out, but it’ll cost you — enterprising fishermen quoted Rs. 5000. However, the colourful boats on the lagoon make for some good photographs.
The lagoon is part of the larger Muthurajawela marshes, a diverse ecosystem boasting many varieties of fish, butterflies, birds and crocodiles. Excursions to the marshlands are also possible, though we were put off by the high boat prices.
Close to the fish market are the ruins of the old Dutch Fort. It’s now a prison, so it’s not possible to get a peek inside — unless you’re willing to commit a crime!
Apart from fish, Negombo is known for its churches, many of which dot the town. In fact, it’s known to some as ‘Little Rome.’ Of these, the best known is St. Mary’s Church close to Main Street. The ceiling is covered in beautiful paintings, and the stained glass in the windows colours the white walls during the day.
Connected by the lagoon bridge is the island of Duwa, which is well-known for the passion plays it puts on during Easter. It too has a very peaceful old church (a well on the premises was marked 1932). You’ll know it by its beige walls with pink detailing. This church, with it’s pleasantly peeling walls, is a stark contrast to St. Mary’s. There’s a clock tower here which you can climb at certain times.
East of town, around a kilometre away down Temple road, is the Angurukaramulla temple. It’s a bit of a distance, but worth it for its eye-catching décor and large six metre Buddha. The entrance to the temple is through a yawning lion’s mouth. Inside, it is a riot of colour, with scenes from Buddha’s life before enlightenment, as well as a shrine room, filled with more ornate statues. Nearby, there’s a small building filled with paintings of scenes from the Mahavamsa. This building is sadly neglected, with some of the paintings peeling off.
On the premises is a dilapidated library, declared open by Sir Andrew Caldecott in 1941. This, too, has a pleasant musty air of neglect. There are still a few dusty books on display, and it’s possible to climb the wood staircase, which will take you to a balcony of sorts, overlooking the road. Towards the back is the Siddha Sooniyam Devale, for those who want to pay homage to Hindu gods.
The stretch from Lewis Place to Porutota road offers many little eateries and pubs. There’s Italian, Western, seafood — pretty much anything you want on offer. This stretch can get a little pricey though; but explore a little as you never know what you might find.
You can take a bus or train to Negombo, either will take you about two hours. A normal bus will cost you around Rs. 55, an air conditioned one around Rs. 100. Second and third class tickets on the train are around the same price. All in all, Negombo is a good choice for a quick day or weekend trip; but the beach isn’t the only thing to see.

Mesmorizing scenes

Some months ago a few friends of mine decided we needed to do a cross-country road trip as we had a vehicle to ourselves, and had had too much of Colombo. After carefully studying the island on Google maps we plotted out our basic route, choosing to head towards the hills of the Uva province and proceed from there.
This impromptu road-trip led to the discovery of Ella, a little town known for its breathtaking views that range from valleys and hues of greens and blues, to even as far as the South Coast on days of good visibility.
A few months later three of us decided to revisit Ella, with more time on our hands but no vehicle, we decided to take the Badulla train from the Colombo Fort railway station. The train leaves at 5.55a.m., 9.45a.m., and 8.00 p.m.  and generally takes about nine to 10 hours to reach Ella. A second class ticket costs under Rs. 500. We passed the time with a guitar and singing songs, taking breaks as we tired our voices, sipping coffee from the canteen and eating dodgy vades and malu paan. I do not recommend food from the canteen, it would be best to take food along with you. Towards the latter half of the journey, as the concrete gives way to the browns and greens of the hillside landscape, our attention was drawn outward towards the hills, the trees, and the mist. The Badulla train is known for its scenic route, if booked ten days ahead one can get hold of an observation class ticket which allows you to really take in all of the scenery.
Making our way out of the station we find ourselves surrounded by greenery, a light rain falling over our heads. We took a van to the guest house, with no idea how to find the place we had stayed at before. After failed attempts at directing the driver in the dark, we decided get off and look for an alternative.
This wasn’t a pleasant experience. Over the three months since our last visit, the guest house owners had taken cue to hike up prices due to the increased influx of tourists. We expected to find a decent room for Rs. 800 as the last time, but instead found that no one would give us a room for under Rs. 2000. On the tight budget that we were on, this was a major mood-kill. While one of us decided to go look for rooms, the rest of us visited the “Curd Shop” that was apparently a restaurant, and made orders for food. They took their own sweet time in serving us our food, as the tables next to us were full of foreigners, who seemed to have no trouble getting their orders to their tables.
With only a handful of restaurants, hotels and guest houses, there isn’t much to expect from the cuisine in Ella. You get your standard paan, pol sambol and parippu in the mornings. Or you can try out the “Curd Shop” that basically sells curd and kithul treacle. We argued over what exactly constitutes chicken fried rice when we were served vegetable fried rice along with a side-dish of chicken curry, though both were fairly mediocre, and way overpriced at Rs. 400. We couldn’t help but feel as though they were catering only to foreigners.
By the time our friend returned finding us a room, our food had finally arrived. Afterwards we walked through the slippery sloped streets to find our guesthouse. Fairly decent, a double-bed, a ceiling fan, clean soft sheets, but certainly not worth Rs. 2000. Sights to see in Ella include the little Adam’s Peak (no competition to the original) which is a breathtaking vantage point for overlooking the valleys and landscape, a view that stretches miles along the provinces, and Ravana Falls. However, disenchanted by Ella’s recent commercialization, we decided to take a bus down to Badulla, a much more developed city that is also known for its views and more notably for Dunhinda Falls.
The bus to Badulla takes only about an hour, though the intercity express buses than run through Bandarawela, Wellayawaya and Badulla will get you there in 30 minutes. Once you arrive at the bus depot it is fairly easy to find your way around. The city is fairly developed, the people unobtrusive and seemingly friendly. We asked around and found our way towards the nearest bank and Cargills Supermarket. Enlisting the help of a trishaw driver we managed to find a guesthouse with a double-room for Rs. 1000. We weren’t greeted by much of a view, unless you could count the abandoned sports complex that was now being used as a landfill. The town is pleasant to walk around, though there aren’t too many sights to see. There is the Dutch Fort, though we didn’t have time to take a look-see. After some rest we went back to the bus depot to take a bus to Dunhinda Falls, just about 20 minutes from the town via the Badulla-Mahiyangana Road.
In order to witness the waterfall you need to walk about one kilometer along a footpath that at points curves precariously around the hill. There are adequate railings, and the path is generally quite safe. Along the way you’ll find a few vendors selling pani dodam, and frying patties. You’ll also encounter monkeys. Yes, monkeys that want your food. The vendor tells us of how they will sometimes steal from customers. I had the misfortune of attracting their attention. Not just one, but five of them, on all corners as I walked along the path they followed me, knowing I was carrying food. Unnerved I threw the patties away, to avoid what seemed like an inevitable mugging.
The path to the waterfall itself it quite pleasant to the eyes, earthy, with rather majestic trees hovering above you, you begin to forget that you’re on a path and not in a rainforest. At the end of the foothpath there is a concrete platform meant for viewing the waterfall.
According to folklore, the Badulla valley was once flooded due to the river being blocked by a wild creeper that grew where the Dunhinda Falls begins its drop. A subject of the king was commissioned to remove the creeper and save the valley. Dunhida translates to “vapour waterfall”, with “dun” meaning “given” and “hinda” meaning “evaporate”. The water falls as if it were a thin cloud, from a height of 60 meters (193 feet), the backdrop being known as “Dunhinda Adaviya”.
We were joined by one of the monkeys as we watched the water in a trance. We pulled out the guitar and sang songs with the sound of crashing water in the background.
Some attempted to climb further down and cross the river in order to get a better perspective of the waterfall, but this is not safe and I wouldn’t recommend it for the faint of heart. Although 60 meters may not seem like much for a waterfall, there is something about this place that makes you want to stay there, transfixed.

The entrance to the Dutch-renovated Jaffna Fort AND Jaffna town in the morning

The ice cream is refreshing in the scorching afternoon heat. Three scoops of mint, chocolate and cherry ice cream, finished off with chocolate sprinkles, Smarties, a wafer, and even jelly and fruit. The best part? It costs just Rs. 120 – but you won’t find this colourful creation in Colombo. It’s one of many concoctions you’ll find at the Rio Ice Cream Parlour in Jaffna.
The ice cream alone is reason enough to make the trip up North – if not the chance to do some exploring. This area had an irresistible appeal to most local travelers.
The first thing that will catch your eye once you reach the town is the Jaffna clock tower. It’s about 130 years old, and a landmark.
A short distance away is the Jaffna Fort. This was built by the Portugese in 1618 and was later renovated by the Dutch. It was the scene of many bloody battles, and was held by the LTTE for ten years before being captured by the Army in 1995.  The Fort is being renovated, but parts of it are still pleasantly crumbling, including the entrance archway. Much of it is overgrown with grass, and sections have collapsed. From the ramparts, a view can be had of the Duriappah stadium, named after the Jaffna mayor who Prabhakaran himself
assassinated. Gleaming in the distance is the clock tower and the dome of the Jaffna library.
Everyone has heard of the 1981 burning, and so the Library gets its fair share of visitors. However, the library is only open for about an hour in the evenings (around 4.30 or 5.00 pm). Inside, you’ll find old maps, archived periodicals, and a wide variety of books- from Harry Potter to Tolstoy and sections of the Ramayana. The library is light and modern- there’s even a children’s section, complete with computers.
There’s no sign of the fire that ravaged it, though a picture on the wall shows the destruction. Careful with your footwear though- anything that isn’t a pair of Bata slippers could get stolen.
Built in 1749 AD, the Nallur Kandaswamy kovil is difficult to miss – it’s located about 1.5 kilometres away from Jaffna town. Its candy-striped walls are the first thing you see, and then there’s the tall, bright orange gopuram. Males wishing to enter the temple must remove their shirts. Going in, you’ll be given ash to rub on your forehead, and incense sticks to light. In the middle is a giant tank or pool. It’s a peaceful way to spend a couple of hours, and as a reward, the Rio ice cream parlour is right near by. At the time we visited, the town was preparing for a feast, so the walk to the temple was dotted with sweet shops selling brightly coloured candies.
Quite a walk from the temple, located not far from the Kailasanathar kovil on the Nawalar road is the Jaffna Archaeological Museum. This place boasts a set of whale bones and some old cannons from the Fort. Inside, are statues both large and small, reliquaries, a large (but peeling) portrait of Queen Victoria, and a wooden palanquin dating back to 1845 (it belonged to the Point Pedro district governor),
Tired of the town? Hop on a bus and visit some other well-known spots. You might have problems communicating if you’re not fluent in Tamil, though. Casuarina beach is about an hour away from town, and then a long walk (or a short trishaw ride) away. It’s infested with tourists now, and it’s not unusual to hear more Sinhala being spoken than Tamil. The water is clear and calm, but be careful- a peculiar kind of stinging fish lurks in these waters, so it’s best not to stray too far. It’s also not advisable to take any valuables, as there’s really no place to keep them on the stretch of beach, but not because of the residents- it was a rather intoxicated tourist who attempted to make off with our backpacks. For other excursions there’s Delft Island, home to two forts- one Portuguese and one Dutch built. To get there, it’s necessary to take a ferry from the Karikattuwan jetty.
Jaffna as a whole is hot and dusty. The stalls near the bus stands sell grapes, giant cartons of Nelli juice and wrapped pieces of jaggery. During the day, the town feels like any other bustling town. At night, however, things get quiet- and empty – pretty fast. There’s a lot to see and do though – so don’t let the long journey here put you off.

Not enough cash?
Jaffna is just as accessible to the budget traveler, if you spend smart.
To get to Jaffna, you have two options. Either book a train ticket until Vavuniya, and from there take a bus to Jaffna, or take an air-conditioned bus that goes direct. Be prepared for a long journey – it takes anything from 12 to 14 hours to get there.
Train tickets can be booked at the Fort railway station, and here again you have several options. There’s the convenient night mail service, which leaves around 10.30 p.m., or the morning service at 5.45 a.m. Third class tickets on the night mail cost Rs. 95, while second class tickets shouldn’t set you back more than around Rs. 300-350. There’s also a new intercity service, which leaves around 6.50 a.m., and costs around Rs. 450.
Alternately, you could go via the private intercity bus. Tickets for this bus can usually be bought in Wellawatte and costs around Rs. 1000.  Be prepared, though; the bus driver usually cranks the air conditioning up high, so it’s best to take a warm jacket. You’ll also be subjected to blaring music and Tamil movies most of the way – although these can be quite entertaining!
Rooms in Jaffna are basic, but clean, though there are more luxurious options. Hotel Lovusi in Jaffna town is recommended. A triple room costs Rs. 3,850, while a double costs Rs. 3,300. It has air conditioning, a TV and the restaurant has decent food – though a little more expensive than you’d find on the street.

The tent from outside, The colourful interior of the ‘luxury tent’ and Dolphins in Kalpitiya

Picture stepping out of your tent and seeing the beach just steps away. A clear sea stretches before you. Nearby, hammocks swing in the light breeze. This is the view from your room — or rather, tent — at the Dolphin Beach Resort in Kalpitiya.
The words ‘luxury tent’ might seem like an oxymoron. Yet there really is no other way to describe a tent which both has air conditioning and can comfortably fit a double bed or two in its spacious interior. The colour scheme is bright and summery — lots of oranges and yellows. There is even a covered ‘verandah’ complete with sofa and colourful throw pillows, should you wish to relax indoors.
Each tent is marked with a lamp painted with a particular species of dolphin at the entrance. At night, the glowing words ‘Humpback,’ ‘Bottlenose’ or ‘Spinner’ serve as a guide to make sure you don’t wander into the wrong room.
The best thing about the stretch of beach here is that the touts and hordes of tourists have yet to descend upon it. It is relatively unspoiled, and the water is calm. In Kalpitiya, dolphin watching is naturally the main attraction. Tours are available, though you have to be sure to visit at the right time (between December to April). Unfortunately, since it was so close to the end of the season, the dolphins eluded our speedboats, but there was plenty more to do. For those who want to attempt something a little more energetic, there is a range of water sports available, from kayaking to snorkeling and kite surfing. During the high season water skiing and fishing is also possible.
The food is buffet style, simple and delicious. The roast paan in particularly warm and freshly made, keeps you going back for seconds. The hotel claims to specialise in fresh seafood, and this proved true with the crab curry served at dinner, which had just the right balance of spices. When on holiday, it’s the little things that count. Attention to detail is important, and this is where Dolphin Beach really delivers. There are many thoughtfully provided nooks and corners. Hammocks, beds and sun loungers are laid out on the sand so you can curl up with a book or alternatively congregate in the Dome, a large summer house that stands at the edge of the beach.
There are only around 10 tents, and that means attentive service. The staff are friendly and might even invite you to join them in a spirited game of cricket in the evenings — that is, if you aren’t too busy enjoying the sunset.
All in all, Dolphin Beach provided the right mix of activity and relaxation. Needless to say, this does come at a price. During peak season (between December and January) a single occupancy tent on full board could set you back US $120. If you’re in the mood to splurge a little, though, it’s well worth a visit.

Galle has many attractions other than just the Galle Fort, something that you may like to keep in mind when you visit the place again, maybe during December, or the Literary Festival.
That said however the Fort does have some snappy things to see, and so I’ll start this non-official pseudo guide to Galle from its most famous location.

The Fort

The Fort used to be an island. It was built by the Portuguese and was then taken over by the Dutch, before finally being taken over by the British. Then of course, we claimed it for our own after independence. There’s a nice little poetic story of Sri Lanka’s colonial struggle in there somewhere if you like, but the Fort nowadays seems to have developed a need to be protected from its own caretakers. Its Dutch era houses and other buildings were sold at a rate by residents looking to make a quick buck. But with the naming of the Fort as a World Heritage Site this seems to have slowed down. There are also regulations preventing modern buildings from being constructed so even if new buildings do come up they are invariably in the old style, expansive architecture of the Dutch.

Walk around its streets, enjoy the architecture and sample its many cafés. Some are rather up-market, targeted at the deeper pocketed tourist than your average local. But there are many that are affordable and great to hang out at. The Peddlar’s Inn and The Gallery Café are nice places. Accommodation is similarly varied, with high end and more affordable inns and hotels. Take a tent and camp on the ramparts if you are more adventure-inclined; the experience is incomparable.

The Sights

Venture to the top most edges of its Moon and Star bastions for amazing views of the city. Catch a cricket match at the Galle International Stadium, for free, with exclusive seating. Also watch the cliff-divers jump off the ramparts into the sea. They are more amphibious than human, and one wonders how they manage to dive with such accuracy into waters so dangerously populated with rocks. The Dutch church is a must see.
If you can, get the caretaker talking (he is a very agreeable gentleman) and get him to tell you a little of the extraordinary story behind the construction of the church. Also, try and get a look at the dungeons underneath but be warned, they were walled off during British times and most of the exciting things the caretaker will tell you about them are hidden from all eyes now. There is also a great little museum run by a private collector that has a huge amount of historic paraphernalia associated with old school Sri Lanka and its Dutch heritage. Be sure to pay it a visit.

Jungle Beach

The Fort offers many more attractions (like the lighthouse and the mosque) but I will move on to Jungle Beach, situated across the sea from the Fort and reached by land via a short trip of two kilometers down Matara road and then by taking the turn off, opposite a large cement factory; Rumassala Road. Jungle Beach is one of the most secluded and wildest beaches I have been to in Sri Lanka, and it is reached by a climb up Rumassala mountain and then by trekking down through greenery through a small route which leads to deserted, beautiful beaches.
There is an interesting legend surrounding Rumassala. It was apparently a part of the Himalayas; dropped by Hanuma on the way, while he transported a part of that mountain range for his master, Ravana, who requested some herb or the other from it. As the story goes, Hanuma could not remember or identify which particular herb his master wanted, so he decided to bring the whole mountain along. Oddly enough, Rumassala is famous for its rare medicinal plants and naturalists do believe there must be something special about such a quantity of rare herbs being concentrated in one place such as this.
There are two routes that can be taken to Jungle Beach; the more scenic starts at the end of the Rumassala road. Pay a visit to the tranquil Japanese Peace Pagoda when you hit the spot. The trail to Jungle Beach heads off to the right and sports sweeping views of the sea and the outcrop of the city of Galle. The beach itself is small and secluded. Bathing when the sea is rough is ill advised. But is a must during gentler times. Swimming out too far is best left to the more experienced swimmers. Snorkeling is also a great thing to do as the area is part of a coral reef. Take your own snorkeling equipment.

Handungoda Tea Estate

If you have the time, drive further south and find your way to the Handungoda Tea Estate, home of the world famous White tea; said to contain special anti oxidant elements that slow down the process of ageing; this variety of tea retails for $1000 a kilo. Not your average corner shop fare.

The estate itself is beautiful and once you are inside it is hard to tell that you are only a couple of kilometers from the coast. Have a chat with the owner and listen to how he ‘rediscovered’ his best selling tea product. Apparently the ancient Chinese made it all the time, with actual virgins assigned to pluck the tea with golden scissors. The stalks were put into golden bowls and were never touched by the human hand at any time during the whole process. The practice is reproduced here sans golden paraphernalia and actual virgins. But the tea is claimed to be just as good.

A chalet and the electric car

Ulugalla Resort is an upmarket boutique hotel situated inTirappane in the vicinity of Anuradhapura. It is the most luxurious hotel one can find in the area.
Ulagalla Resort is not only an up market boutique hotel that offers luxury comforts but also provides a quiet, tranquil environment where the weary traveler can get in touch with their inner selves. There is a  calmness to this spot that cannot  be explained. Memories of Ulugalle will live on.

Ulagalla Resort is a BOI project with an investment of Rs.700 million. It  is owned and managed by the International Construction Consortium (ICC), a fully owned subsidiary of the Finco Group and the credit of this feat goes to Senior Vice Chairman, Harsha de Saram whose efforts helped to build an up market boutique hotel in the post war era.   Guests are welcomed in grand, traditional style at the welcome pavilion where they are invited to light the oil lamp and to ring the bells to inform the villagers that important guests have arrived at the hotel.

Ulagalla Resort consists of 25 elegantly laid chalets scattered over an unrestricted 58 acres of land that borders Ulagalla and Wannamaduwa reservoirs. Most of the chalets overlook the scintillating reservoirs while others overlook their own flourishing paddy cultivation that spreads  over 20 acres and organic vegetable and fruit farms.

The guests are treated like kings and queens and they are all shuttled to the chalets in electric cars. Guests can go anywhere within the 58 acres — to the solar farm, to the rain water harvesting plant, waste management plant, to the stables and to the restaurant for meals. Each chalet is provided with two mountain bikes and the observation desk would be the ideal location for nature lovers to admire the scenic beauty and for bird watching. “In keeping with the ‘Go Green’ concept walls of the chalets are made of fire proof, eco- friendly ‘Durra’ building material which are fitted with planks that are re-cycled timber mixed with imported paddy straw to retain coolness. The chalets are fitted with LED bulbs that reduce the carbon footprint of the resort by 80% while the AC utilises an environmental friendly gas and the heat recovery system provides the entire requirement of hot water.

The solar farm at the Ulagalla Resort which is the largest solar farm in the country with a capacity of 125 KW meets 50% of total hotel energy requirement. “We are planning to go for the exclusive LEED certification and we are proud to say that none of the trees that were originally planted in the property were cut down during the construction but have planted more than 1000 new root balled trees to go with the concept,” General Manager Marketing, Ranjaka De Mel said.

Each chalet has a spacious and sophisticated separate living area outfitted in stylish décor and exotic, native materials offering gorgeous views of the lush greenery. The bedroom is exquisitely furnished and elegance and comfort combine well with hi-tech features. The guests are also offered a tranquil private court yard and a plunge pool for maximum enjoyment in their own privacy. Special chalets have been designed to provide the necessary amenities for handicapped guests.

At Ulagalla, there are no fixed meal times – but individually prepared gourmet cuisine according to the guests’ biological clock. Just call the chef and tell what your meal preferences are, and your choice of food and drinks would be served to your table either in the signature dining restaurant, on the observation deck, at the ‘kamatha’ surrounded by the bountiful paddy cultivation, by the pool, or on the sprawling lawns.

Tatched cabanas with beautiful interiors

Chaminda Abeysekera

Dimly lit,  romantic pathways in the middle of the jungle  punctuated with dwellings that blend with the  environment  constitute the world of Vil Uyana that is much talked about the world over.
These thatched cabanas are but a disguise of the  luxurious interiors  and great comforts held within the privacy of the natural abodes. It is but ironical that whilst guests at Vil Uyana get lost in the wilderness and nestle among the birds and the flora, Vil Uyana itself found its way to the upmarket Harper’s Street international travel magazine recently which describes Vil Uyana as the “best Eco Luxury Hotel in Sri Lanka.”

“This is an amazing place,” said Chaminda Abeysekera, the naturalist at Vil Uyana who has his hands full. Shuttling between elephant gatherings and watching loris, Abeysekera says that life is about Vil Uyana.

At first one may begin to wonder where exactly is the hotel. And then the way of life at Vil Uyana begins to creep in. Winding ways, lit in storybook style, swaying trees that afford a natural escort and soft breezes that misbehave in the  morning and night are all happenings that lighten the heart and mind.

A place much talked about in other parts of the world, Vil Uyana may be less known and less appreciated by those at home in Sri Lanka. But the fact remains that this is a creation of a leisure mastermind. This is a whole village in the making and nature has been let into the plan.

“This lake is manmade,” says Abeysekera as hundreds of fish open their mouths in response to every gesture of the hand. The friendly fish crowd around you as you sit in the library wanting to read. And feeding these friendly fish down below not only make them gape at you with devotion, but leaves you feeling so utterly satiated.

The serenity at the library is just too much, so much so that it is distracting. Before the eye could rest on the second paragraph  the glistening waters catch the eye. The fish with their pink mouths and gleaming scales are but a touch away. So how interesting can any book get when nature has a greater plot — nature here conspires to steal your breath away.

The luxury of the cabanas are hard to leave behind, but Vil Uyana does subtly ensure that one gets the moderate exercise. The quaint little battery operated vehicles make life easier. But guests prefer to connect with nature and laze around. The slow walk to the restaurant leaves one feeling good that some calories have been lost only to be pampered there. Hot croissants and a full breakfast are the luxuries of this hotel in a natural setting.

Herons, egrets, king fishers, a baby crocodile and ducks all find their way  to enjoy your holiday here with you.

“This is a place where bird life comes in search of you,” says Naturalist Abeysekera who has his own set of photographs. With elephant gathering and loris mothers and babies beckoning, professionals and businesspersons who get away for a brief holiday disover  that Vil Uyana   makes nature the most urgent meeting in life.

raneemoham@hotmail.com

Negombo sign in Dutch Museum, Colombo. Photo by Indi Samarajiva

Negombo, 1.5 hours from Colombo, is a small tourist town / fishing village with a walkable strip of restaurants on Poruthota Rd (formerly Lewis Place) and hotels around it. Because it’s so compact, you can go from kadala karaththe to restaurant to pub and stagger back to your room at the end of the night.

Even better, there are a wide variety of restaurants, all of which are quite good and reasonably priced. As a result, even when we went for a holiday weekend at Villa Araliya, all we did was eat. Negombo has all these activities like Dutch Canal rides – with kasippu on the way – and Muthurajawela swamp visits but we never cared: we just hung out and hoovered various kinds of food. These were some of our favorites:

Oasis Beach Hotel and Restaurant

It doesn’t look promising but we had a – pretty good – pizza here.

Rodeo Bar and Restaurant

Rodeo has a really good burger and a very wide menu. Two menus in fact: one is Italian and the other is a mish mosh / hodge podge of western and eastern cuisine. And liquor. And a giant cow skull.

Phoenix Ice Restaurant

Right next to the turn off to Villa Araliya on Lewis Pl / Porutota Rd, but a little bit away from the main set of restaurants, this is a nice little place with a wide menu and live music on the weekends. Owned by a Brit / Sri Lankan couple, it is nicely decorated and lit in a subdued style. The food is low priced but a bit hit and miss: I’d say they’d've done better with a smaller menu and more focus on each item.

Bijou Swiss

For some reason, Sri Lankans love German food. This is Swiss but honestly the only difference between that and German is the level of boiled-ness. If you like schnitzel, pork knuckles and various forms of cabbage – boiled, pickled, etc – this is your place in Negombo.

Villa Araliya (Vegetarian)

It has an excellent restaurant with a beautiful view of the pool and an entirely vegetarian / Italian menu. The pizza margherita – which they delivered to our room – was excellent: definitely one the best we’ve had despite the lack of dead animal flesh on it. Mmm, dead animal flesh.

These are some of the restaurants we went to: let me know your recommendations in the comments, so we can visit those next time.

syndicated by permission from the blog Lanka Reviewed – lankareviewed.blogspot.com