Recently, I found a cocktail napkin shoved into an old journal. On it was the list of guys I’d slept with up until that point in the late ‘90s. I remember the night a girlfriend and I helped each other tally our totals. (“What about that usher at that wedding in Chicago?”) In order to fit my list, I had to write on all four squares.
Yeah, I know. Let’s just say that while the total was more than my age at the time—and roughly three times my friend’s number—it was lower than the debt ceiling. Sure, I had a lot of fun, but in my twenties I was a premature hooker-upper, ever hopeful that sex would lead to love. Occasionally it did, but mostly it didn’t. Evidently I needed to learn that lesson many times over. Still, I don’t regret any of it (and the sex was always safe). I can’t regret something I learned from.

The “Slut” Stigma

Many of us do this math but are not as comfortable with the bottom line. (Take, for example, Anna Faris’s new rom-com, What’s Your Number?, in which she plays a woman about to date her 20th guy. Freaked out by what she feels is too high a number, she sifts through her past to see if she missed The One.) “Most women are aware of the double standard they’re judged by,” says Sallie M. Foley, a sex therapist at the University of Michigan and author of Sex Matters for Women: A Complete Guide to Taking Care of Your Sexual Self. “A guy can brag about having a high number and it won’t really hurt his standing in the future.”
In fact, she says, guys are applauded for having slept with a lot of women, whereas “the culture is still not quite ready to consider women wild and interesting and powerful for having a high number.” And while having a low tally carries less of a stigma, women with very little experience—for reasons other than making the conscious choice not to hook up—might not be bragging about that either.

Coital Calculations

The idea that there’s an ideal number—a Madonna/whore middle ground, so to speak—may be one of the reasons women underestimate their total in sex surveys, while men tend to jack theirs up. (See “Are You Lying Down?”) For what it’s worth, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s most recent study of almost 62,000 American women (ages 15 to 44), 22 percent had intercourse with only one partner, 11 percent had two, and 32 percent had between three and six. A mere 8 percent say they had upwards of 15.
The busiest times for getting busy: the college years, and the early thirties, when women tend to peak in sexual desire and collect more partners, particularly if they get divorced, says David Schmitt, Ph.D., a psychologist at Bradley University in Illinois. Generally speaking, women who are comfortable with sex, extroverted, and feel they’re attractive have high numbers. Alcohol consumption also plays a big role (you don’t say!). When totaling their number, women may count anything they personally consider to be sex (from oral sex to intercourse); religion and local culture may also shape one’s definition of sex, and thus affect the tally.

The Weight of Your Number

More important than what your number is? How you arrived at it and how you feel about it, says Ian Kerner, Ph.D., author of Sex Recharge: A Rejuvenation Plan for Couples and Singles. Look at the qualitative issues that number represents, not the tally itself. “Do you enjoy sex, are you comfortable trying new things, or are there negative experiences that you still bring with you?” he asks. You could have had only one or two lovers (or a satisfying relationship with your vibrator) and feel terrific; or you might have been with dozens of guys and be left cold.
The bottom line: Whether your number is “too high” or “too low” mainly depends on what your gut says when you think about your decision to hook up with partner number three or 300. “A really good reason to have a higher number would be that you know yourself and your sexual identity really well,” says Foley.
“You enjoy sex, safely, for itself—you’re not doing it for trophies, you’re not defiant about it, and you’re not trying to overcome something, such as sexual assault, that hurt you in the past.” If you know sex is not something you’re doing to gain love or numb out, if you’re not abusing substances and crawling into bed with whomever, a higher number is nothing to feel bad about. If, on the other hand, you’re typically left with a what-was-I-thinking feeling, if you feel ashamed, or if you can’t not have sex, she says, going home alone to reconcile your emotions with your actions—and possibly seeking a therapist—is a wiser move.
As for women who have tinier totals, there are likewise healthy and less healthy reasons, says Foley. “Some people simply don’t feel ready until their twenties,” she says, in which case, not having sex is a sign that you know what’s right for you. “There are positive reasons not to be sexual,” she says, such as strongly identifying with a religion or culture that defers sex until marriage. A low number is worrisome if you are hostile toward sex, are avoiding it out of fear or because of some kind of historic pain associated with it, or if you are really withdrawn and have little connection with others in general, says Foley.
“Constricting your life in a way that is based on fear or anger is different from celibacy,” she says. “Sex is a normal, healthy part of human relating, and an aversion to sex is different from choosing not to have it.”
After writing this story, I threw away that napkin. Shortly after my friend and I made our lists, I had settled down, so I won’t be setting a world record. My girlfriend has now lost count. But more important, we’re both happy with who we are, and now when either of us has sex, it leaves us smiling—the only reason to do it, no matter how many partners you do it with.

Are You Lying Down?

It’s a mathematical impossibility: On surveys, straight men claim to have had sex with two to four times the number of partners as straight women. It doesn’t take a math whiz to realize these numbers should be roughly equivalent. So who’s lying? Perhaps nobody: Research suggests the discrepancy has to do with the way men and women tend to recall past experience. In a study at the University of Alberta in Canada, researchers found that when men were asked about their lifetime numbers, they tended to make a rough estimate, which resulted in a rounding up, and women tended to enumerate, which resulted in an underestimation. (Forgot about Spring Break Ted?) When men and women used the same method of tallying, the numbers were a lot closer.
Read more at Women’s Health: http://www.womenshealthmag.com/sex-and-relationships/number-partners#ixzz1oVkYbqe6

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Fail on wide-angle, mostly because I don’t have a wide-angle lens , DJ taking a break and Huge stingray, keep a good distance!

It  was  the first trip to Gingiri for the season, three old hands, M, DJ and myself. Visibility wasn’t flash, around 10-12 metres which isn’t what we usually expect at the other reefs but this was still decent. We split off to do our own thing, DJ relaxing on the sand communing with the powers that be while I tried to (largely unsuccessfully) do some wide-angle photography.
The dive passed quite uneventfully with a huge stingray being the highlight, though a highlight kept at a safe distance and we clambered  back on to the boat ready for the interminable surface interval, necessary to ensure we did not die a horrible death due to decompression illness on the next dive. This surface interval was enlivened however by being surrounded by a number of dolphins, sadly none close enough to swim with and take a peek at.
As we geared up for the second time, little  did we know that the dive to Taprobane reef was going to be a life changing one. Again we spread out along the reef 20 metres down, M and I distracted by trying to photograph random fish and corals. I was trying to take a portrait of a shy fish model when I noticed DJ waving and pointing like someone possessed. Following the direction of his arm, all I could see was something blurry and white in the distance. This however slowly resolved itself into a pod of dolphins. Obviously the noise of our bubbles had alerted them to something new in the water and they had come to investigate.
The beauty was surreal, the pod moving sleekly through the water, at one with their element like I could never imagine. The pod remained at the  outer reaches of our vision, 10-12 metres away but I swear I looked one in the eye as the dolphins gracefully pivoted and left us, their curiosity satisfied. As brief as that moment was, for mystery and the almost supernaturelness of the encounter it was most definitely one of the best moments of 2011.
P.S. Before anyone asks, we were all too gobsmacked to take photographs and visibility was too bad as well. We kept a lookout after our encounter but the messengers of Cousteau did not come back.
Naren Gunasekara

Text and Pictures by Sachini Perera The Ceylon Traveller

I love visiting cemeteries. The allure lies in the serene atmosphere, the haunting silence, the beautiful monuments whether they have stood the test of time or not and most of all, the myriad of stories that can be gathered, if you stop to read the epitaphs.
As far as unearthing stories goes, the British Garrison Cemetery in Kandy is one of the best I have found while travelling around the country. With recent newspaper reports of plans to relocate the cemetery, it is advisable to drop by there soon.

How to find it
Walking distance from the Dalada Maligawa (although it is a bit of a steep climb from the main road to get to the cemetery).
When you are coming from the Dalada Maligawa towards the National Museum, there are signposts on the left side of the road marking the turning point to the cemetery. There will also be a signpost saying “Cemetery Road” on the short walk up the hill. The Kandy Courts complex is also nearby.

Opening times Everyday from 8am to 5pm

History of the cemetery
The garrison cemetery was opened in 1822 as the final resting place for British nationals who passed away while in then colonized Ceylon. The cemetery was open until the 1870’s when it was closed due to lack of space.
The cemetery contains 195 graves of varying shapes and sizes, of men, women and children who died during the period it was functioning. The most common causes of death were tropical diseases such as malaria and cholera. There are several who had passed away due to heat stroke as well. It is evident how alien the tropical climate was for the colonists because the average age of those buried is under 30, apart from a few exceptions. However, here and there, you find those who succumbed to death due to freak accidents, some of which will be listed out later.
There are several other similar cemeteries around the country and those buried in them, both the famous and the not-so-famous, can be found in, “List of Inscriptions on Tombstones and Monuments in Ceylon, of Historical or Local Interest with an obituary of Persons Uncommemorated,” by John Penry Lewis.
The cemetery which was neglected for years was restored and is now maintained entirely on donations by a group called The Friends of the British Garrison Cemetery in Kandy.
The cemetery caretaker Charles Carmichael who has been present both times I visited is the best guide you can have for a tour around the cemetery. He knows the stories behind the tombs by heart and will point out the more interesting stories.
However, the museum in the cemetery premises also contains information on those buried at the cemetery and their stories.
Some of the inhabitants at the cemetery:

Sir John D’Oyly
The most famous would be Sir John D’Oyly, who is buried at grave No. 11. He was a British colonial administrator and was responsible for drafting the Kandyan Convention of 1815, which resulted in the British takeover of the Kandyan Kingdom. Fluent in Sinhala, he chose to live in Ceylon until his death in 1824.
Lady Elizabeth Gregory
She was the first wife of William Henry Gregory who was Governor of Ceylon from 1872 to 1877. This beautiful tomb made of granite (No. 123) is my favourite because even before you find out that she died after just one year of marriage, the sorrow enveloping the tomb can be felt. It is one of the bigger tombs in the cemetery, with a visiting gate as well.
Another inhabitant who is etched in my memory is Margaret, the infant daughter of one Sir John Cheape, who died at just 4 months.
There is another small but tragic tombstone built by a couple in memory of their five deceased infant sons.
Some of the tombs are nameless, with just the initials of the deceased. One in particular that caught my eye was the small and insignificant tomb that could be easily missed, with just the letters W.S. carved on it.

Freak accidents
John Spottiswood Robertson buried in tomb No. 66 was the last recorded death of a European killed by a wild elephant in Ceylon.
No. 110, William Watson Mackwood was killed because he was impaled by a stake on the ground when he alighted from his horse.
David Findlay buried in tomb No. 88 was killed when his house collapsed on him.
While the ancestors of those buried may find the cemetery to be extra special, it is still a truly fascinating place and well worth a visit, especially if the rumours of relocation are true.

Neal Kotelawala’s Kandyan dancers won a silver National Craft award, A potter moulds a clay vase, Painstakingly setting jewellery and Weaving mats on a handloom

The Janakala Kendra Complex in Battaramulla is a treasure trove to those who love handicrafts. Located close to Parliament, right next to a Laksala outlet is a well-laid out complex of thatch huts. Here, local craftsmen from across the country ply their wares. It is a colourful and varied sight.
Tissa Dharmakeerthi specialises in jewellery. He has won several National Craft Competition awards for his designs. Among those he showed me; a hairpin which was also a miniature sesath (ceremonial fan) complete with coloured stones, a ring to commemorate the war heroes (depicting all four branches of the forces) and a burnished antique-looking bracelet which cleverly used a bird to act as a lock. One of his unique pieces usually costs around Rs. 3000, though the prices can vary depending on the level of detail.  For instance, another award winning creation showed the earth set with different coloured stones showing the slow process of global warming, from deep blue to red. As we watch, one of his helpers moulds a clay base and pours in molten silver to create a base, which will later become the replica of a shrine, Dharmakeerthi says. It’s clear Dharmakeerthi puts a lot of thought into his designs. Yet though he does get orders, making a steady living can be difficult, he says.
Not far away, Nimal Premasiri is also hard at work, delicately setting coloured stones into silver chains and bracelets. He comes from Medawachchiya but lives in Homagama now, and has a ready smile as he goes about his work. Premasiri learned his craft from his family; the skill was passed down from generation to generation.
The focus isn’t just on jewellery, though. You’ll also find an army veteran nearby, who creates beautiful hand-loom rugs. These are pricier, at around Rs. 8000 a rug, with the price even going up to Rs. 16,000 depending on the level of difficulty. Then there are the potters, some of whom took classes at the Janakala Kendra complex itself. The potters we spoke to had been practising the art since they were 14 years old. One of them skilfully moulded a wet piece of clay into a vase as we watched. While the simpler designs cost around Rs. 300, there are also more elaborate creations, like a clay buffet dish with intricate hand-painted detailing, which cost much more.
Neal Kotelawala creates tiny sculptures using sea-shells and other assorted knick-knacks. One featuring painted wooden flowers and seashells cost just Rs. 125. There’s even a series of Kandyan dancers, with their features painstakingly drawn on, which earned Neal a national award. He also creates abstract sculpture using oddly-shaped pieces of wood, with minimal carving and shaping. One, on closer inspection, turns out to be a stick figure climbing a coconut tree. Neal plans to have an exhibition of his figures, which he says he has been making since he was a young boy.
Nirmal from Nuwara Eliya is a wood sculptor and carver. Nirmal now lives in Negombo, and commutes daily to work at the centre. He can take anything from two days for a simple figure to two weeks or even a month for larger, more detailed creations. Pointing at the wares on display, Nirmal explained that foreigners preferred an antique look, while Sri Lankans liked clean, sharper finish. His skill, too has been handed down from generation to generation.
There are also stalls selling batik, (there are batik-making classes on the premises) cloth children’s toys, elaborate carved devil masks, jewellery made from coconut husks, crochet and lacework, and brass and silverware. The prices vary, and it’s clear that some stalls get more orders than others. But what really makes this place special is that it gives a space to local craftsmen and to folk art. So the next time you’re in Battaramulla, make sure to drop in. It’s definitely worth a visit, even if only to watch the craftsmen at work.

A motley of birds greet you as you walk into the bird park at Rajagiriya, from elegant Peacocks with beautifully coloured plumes, to raucous mackaws and even head butting mountain goats. Running around you will be sure to catch sight of a few turkeys and chickens. Be sure to go on a free day, where you can spend time not just admiring the birds, but sit and relax on one of the many park benches dotting the landscape, and escape into a different world.

It is located in the last place you would check. Out of nowhere, you would hear the raucous calls of birds when you least expect it.
A bird park in the middle of Rajagiriya. It’s quite a drive from the main road, down Buthgamuwa Road, past the Mahaniyara Junction and just when you begin to wonder if you are lost, you will spot it on the left, bird calls a greeting into a completely different world.
Walking down a pebble path, the first thing you would notice, apart from giant cages and swooping birds, is the fact that the limited space has been managed well. Beautifully managed in fact. There are little winding paths leading you to different parts of the park, benches next to ponds and twisted- strange-interesting trees that look like something out of a Japanese movie.
They have an eclectic assortment of not just birds, but you’ll also find mountain goats and giant squirrels. The turkeys and chickens running around freely are quite harmless and at home with people. At the entrance is a giant cage with a colourful assortment of macaws. I never knew they could be so large, but as they swooped from one end of the cage to another, squawking at each other, creating quite the racket, I wondered what it would be like in their natural habitat. From greens to beautiful blues to striking reds and pure whites, the macaws were quite a picture and not to mention a challenge to photograph.
Further inside was another giant cage for the giant squirrels. They were quite content to run around and nibble at their food. Finding your way around is a bit of an issue because the paths wind unexpectedly and you can’t see where they lead, but that is part of the beauty. Suddenly you will spot an opening in the trees and the next thing you know; there are swings and a peacock cage. The keepers will even let you in to take pictures if you ask, and although I kept expecting the peacock to attack while I was hidden behind the camera, both the peacock and peahen are quite tame. There is no way to describe the beauty of the peacock and do it justice, and this particular one had a beautiful glossy coat with the deepest turquoise feathers that was quite the sight.
Finding your way to the mountain goats from there,  you will see three goats, one male with beautifully curved horns. He looked quite intimidating as he munched away at his food in true goat fashion. The horns of the females aren’t distinctive as that of the male, but don’t be fooled into thinking they aren’t as deadly. One female butted the other rather aggressively to ask her to get out of the way of the food.
I could spend an entire day there and not get bored. The macaws are quite loud and at times the sound is rather painful to the ear, but getting lost there, amid the trees and the ponds, turkeys gobbling and running around, the pebble paths and the unfailing certainty of discovery something new on every visit will take me there again, and yet again. And like all best things ought to be, the entrance is free, and this being private, you can be sure of having your space to sit on a bench and just be able to drink in the peace.

Chaitya road, that stretch adjacent to the Ceylon Continental Hotel, was shut to the public for years, considered a high security zone.
There is still a police post, and you will still be questioned if you venture down that road in a vehicle. The good news is that it’s now possible to walk down this road. To your left is a wide expanse of sea. You’ll also pass the harbour, bordered by high walls. One of the main landmarks on this road, though, is the Galle Buck lighthouse.
This is often called the ‘new’ lighthouse; the original was built in the mid-19th century, and stood on the corner of Chatham Street.
However, the light from the structure was blocked by tall buildings, and so the old lighthouse was turned into a clock tower.
The ‘new’ chequered lighthouse stands in stark relief as you walk down the road. A plaque on the structure reveals that it was built in 1954.
It was called the ‘Gal Bokka’ lighthouse, but the British anglicised the name to the current ‘Galle Buck.’
It’s possible to climb the steps to the base of the lighthouse, which give more sweeping sea views, with the harbour to the right.
A navy officer stationed at the lighthouse said that the structure was built by a German. Walking around, you’ll notice what looks like a constructed open air shallow pond. This, the officer said, was meant to be a bathing spot. Unfortunately it’s not yet possible to get onto the beach and explore this area further, though.
Walking further down Chaitya road, you’ll notice the Sea Angler’s Club, where many eager fishermen gathered, once upon a time. Beyond that, you can’t fail to notice the Sambuddhatva Jayanthi Chaitya- constructed on tall, curved ‘stilts.’ Around sunset, it looks rather like a strange sort of spider overlooking the sea. Walking up to it you will notice a brown gate. It is possible to take a lift up to the top of the dagoba, but you’ll have to remove your shoes. This isn’t possible at any hour, the gates are usually closed around 5:30 or 6 p.m. Once you’re on the top, stop on the thin metal ‘bridge’ to admire the view; the Galle Buck lighthouse can be seen, plus a lot of construction at the Port development project, and of course, more sweeping sea views. It is possible to walk into the dagoba, which has scenes from Buddha’s life painted around the walls. Floating overhead are what look like four bodhisattva statues. The commemorative plaque reveals that the structure was built to celebrate the 2500th death anniversary of the Buddha.
A lot of navy officers are stationed on Chaitya road; you’ll see them strolling about. They are by and large, friendly, but the heavy police or navy presence can sometimes make you uneasy. It’s a shame that this road was closed off to the public for so long, but now that it is open, make sure you take a stroll that way in the early evening.

Top Left: A statue inside the Sri Sambuddhatva Chaitya

Middle Left: The new Galle Buck lighthouse

Centre: A view of the port development project

Top right: The chaitya on stilts

Middle Right: A look inside the chaitya

Below: A bathing spot built behind the Galle Buck lighthouse

The Water Garden, A statue from Bawa’s collection, Bawa’s bungalow, A glimpse into the interior and The red terrace

To get to Lunuganga, you’ll have to take a narrow road that crosses through paddy fields. Though it’s just a 15 minute drive inland from Bentota, Lunuganga is a far cry from the usual sandy beaches.

The entrance is up a gentle slope and through a high gate. Leaves crunch pleasantly underfoot and you are immediately surrounded by trees. Then you will be led up a flight of steps to wait in a ‘hall’ of sorts, but nobody stays here for very long. It is impossible to resist the lure of wandering around. The impression you get is of a controlled wilderness. Manicured lawns intersperse with tangled trees, and there is a stunning view everywhere you look.
It’s hard to believe that this was once a rubber plantation. Yet that is what it was until 1948, when Geoffrey Bawa purchased the land.
The name Geoffrey Bawa should be familiar to anyone who has studied design. The Sri Lankan architect only received qualifications in the subject in 1957, the Geoffrey Bawa Trust website reveals, but he quickly grew to prominence in his chosen field. “English Patient” author Michael Ondaatje observed that Lunuganga was Bawa’s “self portrait,” full of personal touches. It was also his ‘laboratory’ of sorts, where he conducted his architectural experiments.
That’s certainly evident when you wander through Lunuganga. Everywhere, there are benches thoughtfully scattered about, each offering a sweeping view of green. One section of the garden looks out over the lake, with a mini paddy field (complete with grazing cows) next to it. It is quite possible to imagine spending hours curled up on the low stone seat, reading a book. There is a sundial, several wells, tall trees to climb, even a cement ‘fort’ like structure. Little windows open to reveal a view over a cobblestone path. There are marble statues, busts and masks carefully placed here and there. In short, every turn reveals a surprise.
One area, dubbed the field of Jars, has several large urns and is edged by forest.
This leads to my favourite part, which is also the last part of the guided tour. Imagine running down a gently sloping hill, then through a tunnel, and then bursting out into the open again. It is the sort of stuff you only get to do in dreams—but it’s possible at Lunuganga. At the end of the slope are more marble statues and a stunning view of the lake. To the right is the house proper, which is open and spacious, and filled with sculpture and art from Bawa’s personal collection. For instance, you’ll find the distinctive bronze sculpture of Laki Senanayake, who designed the distinctive spiral staircase at the Jetwing Lighthouse in Galle, another Bawa creation. It’s even possible to stay at Lunuganga, but it will cost you a pretty penny, with rooms starting at USD 185 ++ ++ per person a night. For a cheaper option, you can still tour the garden with a guide at Rs. 1,250 (students with accredited student identification only have to pay Rs. 300). Be patient; you’ll be able to wander to your heart’s content after the tour is over.
It is also possible to have lunch or tea on the terrace afterwards, though this will cost you a little extra. For more inquiries, try http://www.geoffreybawa.com/lunuganga/Tours_Stays.html.
Lunuganga is a must visit for those who love gardens and architecture, because there’s a lot to admire- the views, the sculpture and the greenery combined, make for a unique and relaxing experience; and who wouldn’t want to relive their childhood a little by running around and exploring a big garden?

Lion at Angurukaramulla temple, The nave of St. Mary’s Church and Old clocktower, Dutch Fort

The air is full of noise. “Fish, fresh fish!” some call, shouting prices, inviting you to stop and look. Their wares are spread out before them, scales gleaming metallic in the early morning sunlight. There are squid, prawns, even sting ray. Not far away, some women lay fish out in neat rows, drying and curing them. Others cast nets. The smell, of course, takes some getting used to.

A visit to Negombo, though, wouldn’t be quite complete without at least a passing glance at its fish market. Negombo is after all a fishing town — the sea is their lifeblood.
You can sense that by walking through the market, which is colourful and buzzing with activity. It’s worth noting that the prices are also cheaper than Colombo; as long as you don’t mind lugging around bags of fish.
If you’re not a fan of wandering through fish markets, though, there are plenty of other things to see or do in Negombo.
The first thing that comes to mind when thinking of Negombo is “beach.” Many weekend travellers flock to Negombo for a taste of sea and sand that’s also fairly close to Colombo.
The beach is not the most spectacular, but still decent. The hotels often have touts exhorting you to take a ride from a catamaran, go windsurfing, or visit the nearby turtle-hatchery. If none of those appeal, just clamber up onto the rocks and relax.
If you’re looking to explore further, there’s the Negombo lagoon; over 3000 hectares of watery expanse that yields much fresh seafood, including prawns and cuttlefish. It’s possible to take a boat out, but it’ll cost you — enterprising fishermen quoted Rs. 5000. However, the colourful boats on the lagoon make for some good photographs.
The lagoon is part of the larger Muthurajawela marshes, a diverse ecosystem boasting many varieties of fish, butterflies, birds and crocodiles. Excursions to the marshlands are also possible, though we were put off by the high boat prices.
Close to the fish market are the ruins of the old Dutch Fort. It’s now a prison, so it’s not possible to get a peek inside — unless you’re willing to commit a crime!
Apart from fish, Negombo is known for its churches, many of which dot the town. In fact, it’s known to some as ‘Little Rome.’ Of these, the best known is St. Mary’s Church close to Main Street. The ceiling is covered in beautiful paintings, and the stained glass in the windows colours the white walls during the day.
Connected by the lagoon bridge is the island of Duwa, which is well-known for the passion plays it puts on during Easter. It too has a very peaceful old church (a well on the premises was marked 1932). You’ll know it by its beige walls with pink detailing. This church, with it’s pleasantly peeling walls, is a stark contrast to St. Mary’s. There’s a clock tower here which you can climb at certain times.
East of town, around a kilometre away down Temple road, is the Angurukaramulla temple. It’s a bit of a distance, but worth it for its eye-catching décor and large six metre Buddha. The entrance to the temple is through a yawning lion’s mouth. Inside, it is a riot of colour, with scenes from Buddha’s life before enlightenment, as well as a shrine room, filled with more ornate statues. Nearby, there’s a small building filled with paintings of scenes from the Mahavamsa. This building is sadly neglected, with some of the paintings peeling off.
On the premises is a dilapidated library, declared open by Sir Andrew Caldecott in 1941. This, too, has a pleasant musty air of neglect. There are still a few dusty books on display, and it’s possible to climb the wood staircase, which will take you to a balcony of sorts, overlooking the road. Towards the back is the Siddha Sooniyam Devale, for those who want to pay homage to Hindu gods.
The stretch from Lewis Place to Porutota road offers many little eateries and pubs. There’s Italian, Western, seafood — pretty much anything you want on offer. This stretch can get a little pricey though; but explore a little as you never know what you might find.
You can take a bus or train to Negombo, either will take you about two hours. A normal bus will cost you around Rs. 55, an air conditioned one around Rs. 100. Second and third class tickets on the train are around the same price. All in all, Negombo is a good choice for a quick day or weekend trip; but the beach isn’t the only thing to see.